Jeju and the Wind
To Jeju islanders, the wind was something to be both feared and
overcome. When the wind was too strong they could not go out fishing
on the sea, and at times the wind could sweep away their livelihood
completely. The low, shrunken profile of their houses and the checkerboard
pattern of ropes binding their roofs are products of the Jeju peopes
wisdom in conquering the wind. Another surprising mark of this
wisdom can be see in the walls of Jeju, built of irregularly-shapped
stones with gaps visible here and there. Those may look loose,
but in fact the gaps allow the wind to pass trough and help prevent
the walls from being thrown down. Although the wind was an obstacle
to be overcome, it was also a force to be thankful for, as it brought
soil form the distant mainland to the barren rock island of Jeju,
enabling it to support the life of plants, animals and people.
Jeju and Rocks
The force that gives Jeju its character are the rocks. We can’t
talk about Jeju without describing the rocks that lie on the mountains,
the shores, and the broad plains. The Jeju people cultivated this
volcanic island full of rocks to make fields and grow crops. The
stones were transformed into the outer walls of their thatched
houses, the fences around their yards, the dykes between their
fields, and the guardian spirits of their villages. In this way
the people of Jeju Island took a topographical characteristic that
may have been seen as a hindrance to life, and turned it into a
physical and spiritual mainstay that supported and preserved their
lives.
Jeju and the Sea
Jeju is surrounded on all sides by the sea, and whereever you
are in the island, you can reach the coast within an hour or two
by car. Every kind of coastal scenery is to be found in Jeju, from
the emerald-green sea that makes visitors exclaim with delight,
to the deep blue sea of unfathomable depth. There is also the sea
fringed by sandy white beaches or rugged shores where peculiar
boulders have been formed by lava eruptions millions of years ago.
To be able to see on the same day the rough sea that you find to
the east of the island at sunrise and the calm sea that infuses
the western shores around sunset is a special privilege to be enjoyed
on Jeju Island.
Jeju, Island of rocks
To visitors from overseas, Jeju Island is very different from
the rest of Korea. To Koreans, it is an island of leisure and romance.
Jeju is an island formed from volcanic activity, and the basalt
that covers the whole island is a product of that activity. Jeju’s
mountains and coasts, flowers and trees are all remarkable, but
equally impressive are the sills of the people of Jeju who grew
crops on land that’s full of rocks, and used rocks to make
houses, walls, roads, and wells. Perhaps that’s why the island
has so many myths and legends concerning rocks.
At the center of Jeju Island stands a mountain. At 1,950 m, Mount
Hallasan is the highest mountain in South Korea. The lake in its
summit crater is named Baengnokdam or “White Deer Pond” because
of ancient times a Taoist immortal is said to have descended from
heaven and amused himself by playing with a white deer there. Hallasan
can be climbed by various routes, and while some are quite steep,
others can be easily climbed. About 1,800 varieties of plant live
on Hallasan, and depending on the altitude, one can find tropical,
temperate, and cold-climate species. The change of season also
brings changes in the mountain’s appearance. Rhododendrons,
azaleas, and rape flowers bloom in the spring, while autumn brings
a mellow blend of red and golden leaves. In the winter the mountain
is a breath taking landscape of snow and low lying clouds.
The southern coast of Jeju Islands has the beautiful coastal scenery
unique to volcanic islands. In particular, Jusang Jeollidae of
the Jungmun Daepo shore is a group of towering clumns of rock formed
by volcanic eruptions. Their octagonal shapes seem to more closely
resemble man-made sculptures rather than something produced by
nature. On a windy day, you can watch extreamly tall waves crash
into the cliffs and momentarily transform them into cascades of
white spray. Other sights that can only be seen on a volcanic island
include Oedolgae Rock, Cheonjuyeon Waterfall, and Jeogbang Waterfall
in the Seogwipo area.
Finding the inner beauty of Jeju
While driving along the roads of Jeju you will see numerous peaks
large and small. Known as oreum in the local dialect, these peaks
are actually parasite volcanoes, and there are about 360 of them
on the island. Some rise from the green plains in gentle curves,
while others stand tall. Most of the peaks are only about 200 m
tall and not particularly steep, and climbing them is not particularly
difficult. Even if you happen upon one of the steeper oreum, the
view from the top will more than compensate for the effort of climbing
it. Sometimes you’ll catch the faint sight of the sea, and
other times you’ll see cows peacefully grazing on a nearby
peak. You might even see a distant line of these mysterious peaks.
 On an oreum, you can not only enjoy the surrounding scenery, but
also feel the invigorating strong wind of Jeju island. But it’s
not always easy to get to an oreum. Many are on private property,
and those that are not seldom have proper trails leading to the
sumit. Perhaps that’s why they have been able to keep their
natural beauty unimpaired. Most of the more accessible of these
hills are on the eastern side of the island. Yongnuni Oreum and
Abu Oreum, in particular, are quite well known even to the visitors.
One of the hills recommended for climbing by locals is Darangsui
Oreum, which is outstanding for its beautiful curves. For views
of the Jeju coast and distant Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak, the summit
of Donggeomun Oreum is hard to beat.
Jeju Island is a place that has kept its diverse natural beauty,
and every part of the island yields unforgettable scenes, but to
see oreum. Green plains, and Jeju villages all at once, try exploring
Jungsangan Road (Highway No. 16). There you’ll find side
of Jeju Island not often seen by tourists.
Jeju, a place of rest and enjoyment
On Jeju island, each season brings its own charm and beauty, and
visitors come in an unbroken stream all year round. Jungmun Tourist
Complex is visited by most tourists. Located at the western end
of Seogwipo City. This comprehensive national tourist complex was
built to better appreciate Seogwipo’s outstanding natural
beauty. Equipped with seven or eight top class hotels, a beach
resort, beautiful coastal scenery. Cheonjiyeon Waterfall, Pacific
Land, Yeomiji Botanical Gardens, an international convention center,
golf course, tourist fishing village, Teddy Bear museum, and all
kinds of leisure facilities, this popular tourist complex allows
visitors to experience the beauty of nature and Jeju’s entertainment
life at the same time.
If you want to go somewhere a little more fast-paced, visit the
Jungangno district and Chilseongno area of Jeju City. Here you’ll
find all kinds of shops, restaurants, theaters, and bars. Traditionally,
Jeju has been known as the “Isle of Three Plenties,” plenty
of wind, rocks, and women. Conversely, it is also known as the “Isle
of Three Have-Nots” ; there are no thieves, beggars, or gates.
Recently, however, the island has shown signs of sweeping changes.
Above all, with the creation of the Jeju Special Self-Governing
Province in July of this year, which grants the island extensive
autonomy in administration, economic policy, social welfare, and
protection of the environment, Jeju took a big step forward as
a free international city.
Jeju is not a particularly large island, and you can circle the
island on the coastal road in about four hours in a car. Invariably,
there are those who spend two or three days visiting the more popular
tourist spots believing that they have seen all there is to see
on the island. But only when you have climbed to the top of mount
Hallasan, heard the legends connected with the jagged cliffs, and
seen the inner nature of the people who live on the hills, do you
feel the real attraction of Jeju. From the way the locals refer
to outsiders as “mainlanders,” one might feel that
Jeju islanders don’t readily reveal their inner thoughts
to outsiders. But when they greet you in the local dialect with
questions like, “Did you eat?” or, “Going
somewhere?” you can feel the shy hospitality and simplicity
of the people of Jeju. |
