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  Featured Destination: From Delhi to Orchha
 
Text and photos by Alain Verdier
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Ridding the rail on India’s Shatabdi Express

Since the early 1900’s Delhi has been the capital and the economic and cultural center of the country. The Shatabdi Express that departs from is a convenient form of transportation connecting Delhi with Agra, Gwalior and Orchha. It is a one of a kind travel experience. Alain Verdier rode the Shatabdi Express to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal; Gwalior, a city full of temples and ancient ruins; and Orchha, capital of the Rajput Dynasty.

 

Royality and Reality

Delhi is adapting faster to all the many changes of the 21st century than any other city in India. Delhi, which was chosen as the capital of India in the 20th century, is divided into two parts: Old Delhi, which shows the rich history of the country, and New Delhi, which is fast progressing toward a modern city. Surrounded by ancient royal monuments, the people of Delhi are confident in their future Delhi where the past and the present mingle together, is the permanent heart of India.

Love and Legend

Agra was the capital of the Mughal Dynasty before Delhi. The palaces and forts of Agra, with their beautiful architecture and artwork, are a witness to its glorious days. The red sandstone Agra Fort shows the splendor of the Mughal Dynasty, which once ruled over India. The creamy white Taj Mahal, built for a dead queen, reveals the eternal love of a grieving emperor. Agra connects Delhi and Jaipur as part of the Golden Triangle. The city is a tribute to enduring love.

Chivalry and Grandeur

Located on the Agra-Deccan main route, Gwalior, with its famous fort perched 200 meters above the city, has kept the tradition of chivalry. Its legendary beginning stems from the meeting of a warrior and a hermit who lived on a hilltop. It is said that the hermit cured the warrior of an incurable didease who, as a gesture of gratitude, founded Gwalior. Standing on a steep sandstone hill, Gwalior Fort is a magnificent monument. The city has now become dynamic center which has caught up with the rapid changes seen all over India.

Serenity and Grace

Built by the Rajput Dynasty in the 16th century, this small town, Orchha, has become very populartourist destination. In Orchha one can enjoy the peaceful and tranquil atmosphere that has become a rarity in other Indian cities. In the midst of this simple atmosphere, Orchha reveals the elegant architectural beauty of its Maharaja palaces and temples. Its delightful serenity will provide a welcome interlude to tired travelers on their long journey.

Rail travel is an integral part of the Indian travel experience. The Indian railway system is legendary with over 63,000 kilometers of track and 6,853 stations. The Shatabdi Express, connecting Delhi, Agra, Gwalior and Orchha, links some of India’s marvels in one line.

The scent of India waking you senses: Delhi

Delhi has long been the center of India. One thousand years of impressive monuments from the reign of the Turco-Afghans to the British still stand all over the city.

As India’s third largest city, Delhi faces many of the challenges common to large urban centers, including meeting the housing needs of an ever-expanding population. However, Delhi’s unique character continues to exist in its colorful bazaars, spectacular gardens and treasured monuments, such as the Kutub Minar, the Red Fort and the Royal Tombs.

An auto-rickshaw tour along the Mahatma Gandi Marg (better known as Ring Road), and which encircles the city, reveals the many shops that dot the streets for kilometers on end. Take an early walk along Chanakyapuri, the Diplomatic “Kibbutz” of Delhi, and you will see the long queues of stoic-looking Indians applying for visas or people diligently practicing yoga on the lush green grass of the Rastrapati Bhavan.

Janpath is a popular shopping area for tourists. Shops display bronze statues of Hindu gods and godesses, traditional, traditional leather pouches, and saffron colored fabric decorated with religious designs mixed with strings of beads. If you arrive early at the Hanuman Mandir (Temple of the Monkey God), you will marvel at the endless bunches of freshly cut flowers whose delicate perfume fill the morning air. At noon, you can’t miss the aroma of stuffed pastries cooked in copious amounts of clarified butter. Delhi is an insight into innumerable cultures, the breeding-ground of many dreams. It is a wild assault on your senses, and Delhi cannot be ignored.

The Mughal emperors’ choice, Agra

It is 6 o’clock in the morning at the New Delhi Station. A sharp whistle blow completes with the sound of loud speakers and the noise of the crowd: woman in bright saris, men carrying huge bundles on their turbaned heads, and red-uniformed porters darting trough the hordes with a half dozen suitcases. The train sets off for its first destination: Agra, the city of the Taj Mahal. Traveling at a comfortable 1110km per hour, take the time to enjoy a spicy meal of lentils, basmati rice and samosa, and a glass of tea. In a little less than two hours, the train arrives in Agra.

Agra’s Taj Mahal is a must-see. The beauty and the perfect harmony of the Taj Mahal leaves you breathless. Agra was the chosen city of the Moghal emperors. Emperor Shahjahan was struck with grief when his favorite wife Mumtaz Mahal died in 1631, and had the Taj built as a memorial to his beloved. It took 20,000 laborers 22 years to complete the monument.

Things have changed here during recent years. The crowds are still as large, and foul and grumpy-looking camels still take the more adventurous tourists to the Wonder, but the dome of the Taj Mahal is whiter since the government has relocated all heavy industry in the area away from the monument in as effort to lower pollution. India’s famous Nobel laureate, Rabindranath Tagore, beautifully described the Taj Mahal as “a tear drop on the check of time.” At Agra, one should forget about all the legends and tales about the Taj and just contemplate on the most magnificent building on earth.

The pearl of fortresses, Gwalior

The city of Gwalior is located in the state of Madhya Pradesh, 119 kilometers from Agra. Take the Shatabdi Express and you can arrive in an hour and a half. With its exhilarating atmosphere and undeniable aura of romance, Gwalior is one of the most impressive cities in India. It was always an important city because of its strategic location on the Agra-Deccan main route.

Standing on a steep sandstone hill, Gwalior Fort dominated the city and its most magnificent monument. It has been a place of mementous events: battles, imprrsonments and self-immolations. It was once considered one of the most invincible forts in India, and emperor Barbur called it “the pearl of the fortress of Hindustan.” Within the fort one can find marvels of medieval architecture, vast chambers with fine stone screens, and music halls for the royal ladies.

At the very center of the city is the gigantic Italian style palace of the royal Scindia family, which combines Tuscan and Corinthian-style architecture. The 700 rooms are furnished with Persian carpets and French furniture. If you want to “go royal,” a night at the residence of the Maharaja’s favorite daughter will make you forget your humble origins.

Serenity in Magnificence, Orchha

9:15 am. It’s back to the Shatabdi Express for the hour ride to Jhansi, where a car is waiting to take you to Orchha (an additional 16 kilometers way). Built along an idyllic river, the old kingdom of Orchha has a nostalgic beauty. Today it is a big village with an undeniable charm and where time seems to have stopped four centuries ago. Orchha’s magnificence has been captured in stone frozen in time. The palaces and temples built by Bundela rulers in the 16th and 17th centuries retain much of their pristine perfection. The fort in Orchha houses three beautiful palaces. They are adorned with delicate towers conveying extraordinary richness.

In the morning, crowds of colorfully dressed women go to the river to wash their clothes and bathe. Mischievous children ham it up in front of the tourists while unhurried ox carts pass on the bridge as they have done for centuries. Orchha leaves toy with a tranquil feeling of serenity.

5:40 pm. Leave the old tram station of Jhansi. The unforgettable five days in the extraordinary country that is India and about which the famous American writer Mark Twain once said, “India, the country that all men want to visit and when they have seen it even for a short time, would not exchange that glance for all the wonders of the world.” Taking the Shatabdi Express to these four gems of India, you can’t help but run into some of most generous and optimistic people you’ll ever encounter. Even after the journey is long over, India will continue to shine in your memory.

 

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